Belgian ales rank as nobility in the beer world, and with good reason. In this tiny country, an artisanal brewing tradition with medieval roots has survived nearly intact. “Hoegaarden” is the standard bearer for Belgian white beers, a style spiced with coriander and orange peel, and is widely available around the globe. “Witbier” means white beer, a reference to the pale cloudy hue from the addition of raw wheat. Few brews can stand up as well to Asian flavors like ginger or Mexican spicy heat. This beer can also master the challenges of vinegar or citrus found so often in chilled appetizers and salads.

Lambic beers are neither ales nor lagers, but rather result from “wild yeast” fermentation that yields a rustic wine-like edge of fierce acidity and funky aromas reminiscent of soft-rind cheese. Lambics are generally fruit beers and can range from dry to the fully sweet. Boon (pronounced “bone”) is a stronghold of the drier style so rarely exported, and is more appropriate for dinner service than dessert. “Kriek,” or cherry, is Boon’s icon brew, combining seductive red-fruit flavor and tartness with the praline aroma of cracked cherry stones. Delicious with mustard-spiked sandwiches and fresh produce, few beers are as delightful with picnic lunches at the lake.

Though it is one of the world’s strangest beers, Berliner Weisse could also qualify as the most refreshing summer brew of all time. With half the alcohol of normal beer and the bracing acidic backbone of fresh lemonade, it can conquer even a blazing noon-day sun. This seasonal wheat beer is sheer in texture and an oddly yogurty sourness, an ideal partner for summer salads or raw oysters. Or, try the traditional approach taken in Berlin, where this local specialty is most often served “mit Schuss,” or “with a shot,” referring to a dash of sweet syrup. The usual options are red or green for raspberry or woodruff, a tender aromatic herb, both of which create tempting sweet-tart drinks far more quenching than any cola.

SOUTH GERMAN WHEAT BEER - HEFEWEIZEN
___________________________

Weihenstephaner “Hefe Weissbier,” $2.50/12 oz.

Further south, another German wheat beer tradition thrives in Bavaria, where Hefeweizen reigns supreme in summer. Literally translated “yeast wheat,” Hefeweizen beers are cloudy gold in color and packed with rich, spiced fruit flavor. These friendly beers have virtually no hop bitterness, and as such are crowd pleasers that appeal to even non-beer drinkers. An unusual yeast strain gives Hefeweizen a distinctive banana bread character, though no fruit or spices are added to German beers by law. Weihenstephaner produces one of the all-time classics, able to both pique and satisfy the appetite at once. Sometimes served with a slice of lemon, Hefeweizen beers pair as well with casual burgers as they do with sesame chicken.

The Friesland town of Jever, not far from the North Sea, makes one of Germany’s most striking pilsner beers. Paler and more bitter than the softer styles of Bavaria and Bohemia, the fierce bite of Jever puts bland macro-lagers to shame. This pungent, mid-weight lager delivers a blast of refreshment that builds to a whip-crack finish. Sharp piney aromas and lean soda-cracker malt flavors cut through even the fattiest of fried foods, scouring the palate clean. When hot, muggy days are getting you down, a cold Jever is as welcome as a Nordic breeze, a bracing counterpoint to fish and chips or butter-dipped lobster.

AMERICAN FRUIT INDIAN PALE ALE
___________________________

Dogfish Head “Aprihop,” $2.50/12 oz.

“Aprihop” will be a revelation for those who think fruit beers aren’t “real” beers. Dogfish is renowned for “India Pale Ales” loaded with malty muscle and jolly, green hop aromatics on a giant scale. The irreverent “Aprihop” delivers both in spades, enough to keep any brew-geek happy, but defies convention by adding fresh apricots to this otherwise “serious” beer. The fruit and pale ale flavors marry seamlessly, creating a fruit beer that isn’t dominated by fruit flavor or sticky sweetness. “Aprihop” is unusually strong for a summer beer, with enough body and bitter bite to take on the strongest, spiciest summer foods.

AMERICAN BOHEMIAN-STYLE PILSNER
___________________________

Sierra Nevada “Summerfest,” $1.50/12 oz.

Sierra Nevada may be synonymous with pale ale, but this lesser-known seasonal brew deserves a place on any summer playlist. “Summerfest” models itself on the original Czech pilsners, like Urquell, that inspired a worldwide fascination with crisp, pale lagers. “Summerfest” is true to the Bohemian style; pale, mid-weight and lightly bronzed, showcasing the subtly floral Saaz hop, albeit with a bold California brewer’s hand. Brilliant with everything from raw shellfish to sausages, the deft combination of flavor, refreshment and value of “Summerfest” could convert any macro-drinker to micros for life.

AMERICAN WHEAT BEER
___________________________

Three Floyds “Gumballhead,” $7/22 oz.

“Gumballhead” has an attitude all its own, as one look at its crude, grouchy label will confirm. Wheat beers may traditionally be only mildly hopped, but “Gumballhead” sets tradition on its ear. Like most Three Floyds brews it’s a hophead’s dream, crackling with resinous, citrusy hop aromas. Though it clocks in at a modest 4.8 percent alcohol, this is no wimpy wheat beer. “Gumballhead” is an “in your face” wheat beer, with the piney essence of fresh Amarillo hops screaming out of the glass. Softly sweet on the palate and surprisingly gentle in bitterness, few summer beers are as adept handling complex spices, from dry rub barbecue ribs to shrimp with coconut curry.

CANADIAN FRUIT WHEAT BEER
___________________________

Unibroue “Éphémère – Apple,” $6/22 oz.

Not far from Montréal, the Canadian brewery Unibroue is crafting authentic interpretations of Belgian brewing recipes. They are also creating a few newsworthy styles of their own, like Éphémère—a line of ales brewed with both fruit and wheat. Éphémère Apple has tremendous finesse, its green apple character understated and almost as aptly ephemeral as the dainty fairy on the label. Snappy and refreshing, this lees aged ale rolls aspects of hard cider, wheat beer and Champagne into one delightful package. Éphémère is a graceful partner with subtle seafood dishes, yet has the sinew to stand up to sweet-tart tropical specialties like Thai tom yum soup.